06.11.2012 - Здоров'я

Japanese boom

Smooth bamboo sticks which add to refinement each motive. Ideally exact piece of rice and fish. Salted soy-bean sauce. Sharp horse-radish of wasabi and tart pickled ginger with sweetish taste, which add a taste contrast. Not so we did not understand a long ago, as constrained between itself all of it. However presently hardness to find a man which even one time did not try sushi. Today this delicacy, as well as Japanese kitchen, on the whole, grew into something sufficiently workaday and usual.

Exotic or ukrainian?

Time and taste makes ukrainian quite a few actively, it would seem, absolutely not «our» foods. For example, whoever does know, what shashlick? To drive out on nature with friends and family and frying the pieces of the pickled meat on шампурах began even by national tradition. Practically in every Ukrainian restaurant there will be this, however paradoxically, Georgian food in a menu. People are exchanged by experience, and it is a natural process. Ukrainians appropriate «variations» of that or other kitchen also. Here such «culinary cosmopolitanism itself».

However much every far-sighted restaurateur will try to lean to this phenomenon all forces. Why so? A foreign kitchen is exotic things, and it brings in a return. A restaurant with an universal menu will feed only, and a restaurant with a national kitchen will compel to feel into China, France, Italy, any other country. Presumably, by main reason of that the Japanese kitchen, and in particular one of biggest-selling foods is sushi, saved the «national person» is it late appearance on our tables. When Japan with the specific foods carried out «raids» and conquered an all greater favour, well-educated restaurateurs have already known exactly, how to earn money from exotic things.

From a practical invention – to popular food

In Japan sushi appeared as early as sixth age. And not as food, but as practical invention. The layers of raw fish wrapped up in rice the enzymes of which allowed to it to undeteriorate during a few months. Then he was thrown out or used again for storage of new fish. So many ages lasted. Then from rice which was used by such method, began to prepare various foods. It was considered that fish which was saved in him had given rice unique taste. In addition, fish which was eaten is small go through the long process of fermentation. Only after it it was considered ready for a consumption.

Only at the beginning of the nineteenth age, when in Ukraine already ate vareniks, dumplings, borsch, – in Japan a cook Khanaya Yokhey decided to give up the process of fermentation and began to give sushi in a traditional for us kind – with raw fish. And in general they more reminded modern food.

Epidemy of sushi

During the twentieth age to sushi become more popular in Japan. The Japanese restaurants appear mass. Afterwards this popularity passes to other countries.

In Ukraine 15–20 years ago about what sushi, majority knew nothing. People only began to open on your own existence of coca-cola and hamburgers. Raw fish in algae scarcely would be perceived adequately by of that time society. When at the end of 90th began to acquaint slavs with this Japanese crankiness, the question of mass popularity was not put. Opposite! Yet greater inscrutability and exotic things to food a price policy added. The first Japanese restaurants which appeared in Kyiv were such elite establishments, as «Dignity of Tori», «Tokyo», «Nobu». Sum average to the check made about 300 hryvnyas. Then sushi ate units actually, and other was only surprised to them or did not know about  existence of such delicacy.

Cardinally other look to food, on the Japanese restaurant, and more frequent sushi-bar, and, that more main all, on a having a special purpose audience instrumental in development of mass popularity of sushi. If at the beginning of existence of sushi in Ukraine were counted on well-to-do people which will be able periodically to come in a restaurant and abandon the pot enough of moneys there, then this conception changed afterwards. Sushi-bar became democratic establishment which took aim on a middle class, mainly young people. One of the first such chart was inculcated by the Russian network of the popular Japanese restaurants of «Yakitoriya». An idea consisted in that, to carry taste of sushi to the masses. Consequently, prices became accessible, a restaurant purchased outstanding popularity. Afterwards a network began to develop, reaching to Ukraine. And real «sushi-epidemy» began farther. Unusual taste and unicity of process of the use of meal became very successful «chips» for restaurateurs. Sushi-bars grew into a favourite resting-place for many Ukrainians.

Today the amount of restaurants with a price policy, counted on a middle class, exceeded the amount of elite and dear establishments. 12 % «Japanese» restaurant business are restaurants with a middle check in 200–300 hryvnyas; 21 % – 30–50 hryvnyas; 27 % – 100–200 hryvnyas. Most of establishments – 40%, with a middle check in 50–90 hryvnyas on one person.

Chicaneries of accessible Japanese foods

Though mass availability did sushi awfully popular, and after it the problem of quality is hidden. Is it possible to carry conviction, that in establishments from comparatively given the low costs of sushi such which they indeed must be? From one side, similar restaurants considerably lose in taste of this food. In fact in an order to prepare sushi correctly and deliciously, it is necessary to have the special technique and dear ingredients on which establishments of such to the type save often. But this problem is comparatively not serious, in fact scarcely many will be able to depart to Japan and compare sushi «Ukrainian» and those original which, indisputably, unsurpassed.

There is other question – observance of quality of all products guaranteing of their freshness. Fish which went not a single thermal treatment is an extraordinarily dangerous product. In addition, more frequent all sushi prepare hands ungloved. It is related to the Japanese consuetudes. It is considered that food must absorb for itself positive energy of cook. Consequently, very much depends on the personal hygiene of personnel. Dear restaurants with excellent reputation, unlike cheap doubtful establishments, are in a position fully to guarantee quality of the products. Therefore in pursuit after an economy it is important not to endow an own health.

When demand exceeds supply, or Expect new sushi-bars

Sushi became «favourites» practically in all cities of Ukraine. Delicacies can be met already not only in the Japanese restaurants: establishments with any kitchen have the «Japanese page in the menu».

However much opening of new establishments of such to the type is actual and until now. For today suggestion on this segment of market satisfies demand only on 30–40 %. In Kyiv there are very little more 30 establishments which offer sushi. Thus more frequent all it is the even Japanese not restaurants, but establishments with  various national foods, where it is possible to meet the and Italian, and French kitchens and others like that. For a city from about 3 million population in which sushi are extraordinarily popular food, it extraordinarily not enough. With every year rate of life of the capital, and all Ukraine, accelerated only. Fully predictable is that the amount of establishments will be increased with the Japanese kitchen exactly of format of fast-food.  Possibly, experience of restaurant of rapid feed of McDonalds will be adopted even, where it is possible to purchase a meal not coming from to the car. It comfortably in particular for those, whoever is in a position to outlay much time on dinner. Today analogues of McDonalds are not practically, and many people feed there exceptionally through a comfort.

«In Ukraine disintegration of the USSR assisted appearance of the Japanese kitchen», –  general director of Yapi

Expressed own vision of reasons of reckless popularity of sushi director general of company Yapi, proprietress of seven different Japanese restaurants in Ukraine Maria Adonina. It marked that the receptors of man are arranged so, that we subconsciously constantly will search that taste which pleased us. And to find the Japanese kitchen somewhere elsewhere, except for a restaurant, extraordinarily hardness. A man will return for this reason, in fact it food unique, but not, will assume, borsch which it will be able to prepare at home independently, is offered to.

Also, in opinion of mrs. Maria, Ukrainian sanitation centers are the most severe in the whole world. They yet until now work after soviet standards in which extraordinarily rigorisms always behaved to the commodity. Therefore a dear restaurant can guarantee absolute quality of product. And all stereotypes which exist in relation to raw fish are rather experiencing those, who got used to the traditional meal and to that meat and fish must go through thermal treatment.

Though the Japanese kitchen, namely sushi, there is already not alone age, according to mrs. of Maria, to its appearance on our the market disintegration of Soviet Soyuzu assisted. Before simply there were not possibilities, standards and ways for the import of unusual products.

Because of plenty of the Japanese restaurants which already exist and will be opened, director general of company Yapi divided by the vision in relation to that, how it is possible to be selected on this background. On its opinion, restaurants with the classic Japanese interior it is already existed too much, he is «rubbed» out. By it already scarcely will surprise today’s Ukrainian. Therefore «go for a product», on that in this establishment give, but not on that which hangs on walls. A mrs. Maria marked that «the main is on a dish». And herein, on its words, all philosophy of the Japanese kitchen.

Sushi isn’t simply delicacy, but the real spectacle, certain ritual. It costs only to make attempt and, probably, love to sushi will be  ardent and long. And there yet years one hundred – and, maybe, already and everybody will remember not, that it is Japanese food, but «culinary cosmopolitanism» will exist actually. In practice, but not only as an absurd theory.

 Anastasiia Novikova